Review: Anya Wassenberg

Photography: Che Rosales

 

Flowing fabrics, fresh colours and classic neutrals filled the runways for Toronto Spring 2016 Fashion Week. Designers brought appealing, wearable pieces for today’s woman, largely following the pattern of looser and more voluminous silhouettes set in the last year or so with bare shoulders, high slits and other peeks of skin to compensate.

 

Hilary Macmillan

WMCFW-SS16-Hilary_Macmillan-Che-Rosales-4078Toronto based Hilary MacMillan offered Seventies inspired pieces in a dusky palette of dark purple, green and blue, featuring shirt dresses and loose fitting separates.

 

Lucian MatisWMCFW-SS16-Lucian_Matis-Che-Rosales-2694Wunderkind Lucian Matis’ models wore gorgeous eveningwear in classic black and grey with a graceful flair for eye catching cuts that flow around the body. Daytime dresses came in magenta, coral red, blue, pretty florals and other eye catching big prints with wide gathered skirts at the knee or lower.

Some of the most exciting pieces came from the Mercedes Benz Start Up capsule, a program that showcases emerging designers. This year’s entries included three wildcard designers Leinad Beaudet, Narces and Laura Siegel along with regional finalists UNTTLD, Beaufille and S.P.Badu. This is where you found more urban streetwear, like the Beaufille collection of strategically cut separates in black, white and a rich burnt umbre. Laura Siegel brought a sense of whimsy to everyday pieces, featuring unexpected cutouts and unusual combinations in a grey/white palette. Leinad Beaudet’s black and white pieces featured voluminous fabric with elegant draping. Narces’ bridalwear went retro for 1940’s glamour and 1920’s elegance and while S.P. Badu’s streetwise separates for men and women focused on basic black and stylish detail in a vaguely dystopic future mode.

 

Beaufille
WMCFW-SS16-MBStartUp-Beaufille-Che-Rosales-1593

Laura SiegelWMCFW-SS16-MBStartUp-Laura_Siegel-Che-Rosales-1816

Leinad BeaudetWMCFW-SS16-MBStartUp-Leinad_Beaudet-Che-Rosales-2004

NarcesWMCFW-SS16-MBStartUp-Narces-Che-Rosales-1680

S.P.BaduWMCFW-SS16-MBStartUp-SP_Badu-Che-Rosales-1902

UNTTLDWMCFW-SS16-MBStartUp-UNTTLD-Che-Rosales-2058

UNTTLD¬†was The Awarded Designer of this year’s Start Up program, a lucky winner who’ll get year-round mentoring along with an editorial feature in FASHION Magazine, a fully produced solo runway show at World MasterCard Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2016 in March 2016, and a $30,000 bursary. The winning collection featured elegant and eminently wearable pieces that brought a glamourous take to daywear separates in classic black.

Pink TartanWMCFW-SS16-Pink_Tartan-Che-Rosales-4917Perennial favourite Pink Tartan echoed the Seventies mode but on the funkier, hippy side of things with fringed skirts and bright stripes with a soft, dove grey as a neutral along with black and white. Flared and wide leg pants, cropped pants, asymmetrical hemlines and chunky heels reigned.

TATSUAKIWMCFW-SS16-TATSUAKI-Che-Rosales-5869 WMCFW-SS16-TATSUAKI-Che-Rosales-6066 TATSUAKI was a highlight with a graceful collection that brought sexy back with flirty, shorter skirts and contrasting patterns in forgiving, waist-less designs. He bucked the body shrouding trend with pretty dresses and separates and a fresh, floral palette.